I've been somewhat reluctant to traveling to Russia recently. In Moscow there has been big protests against Putin, since the irregularities in the recent election. More than 100.000 people have gathered in demonstrations in the city center.
In Murmansk a nuclear-powered submarine caught fire in the shipyard. According to Russian authorities, the situation is fine, and no radioactive waste has leaked.
History has shown that when Russian authorities say everything is under control, there are reasons to be worried.
What would you choose? Anti-Putin demonstrations or a burning nuclear submarine? Where would you go? Moscow or Murmansk?
This week, my choice was easy: I take both.
According to our Moscow office, the situation is OK. There's no risk traveling to Russia, really.
My trip had a bad start. The airport in my hometown was closed due to fog, so I missed my subsequent flight with Aeroflot to Moscow. Fortunately, I got an alternative route, with Air Baltic to Riga, and connection to Moscow. I arrived in the hotel at midnight, some four hours delayed.
Yesterday was a exhausting. I was in a work meeting from 9am to 6pm. Then a driver took me through the Moscow traffic jam to the airport. I had a quick (so-called) dinner in the airport, before boarding the plane to Murmansk together with a Russian colleague. I'm completely dependent on help from a translator to get my job done.
Today is a popular Russian holiday, the epiphany. My Russian friends explained to me that they're celebrating the "Christening of Christ", when Jesus was baptized in the Jordan River. Maybe that's when he got the nickname Christ?
The celebration started last night, with mass in the churches, and hordes of Russians seeking frozen rivers and ponds. They cut a hole in the ice and jump into the water, three times, while saying magic and saving prayers.
Many people didn't show up at work today. I'm not sure if it was due to the dives in the cold water, or the following vodka.
Tonight I'm just relaxing in the hotel, reading and writing. Mission completed. There's nothing more i need to do.
Tomorrow I'm flying back home on an Antonov 24, an amazing old propeller plane from the Soviet times. This type of plane was built from 1960 to 1980. There are still more than 1000 of them flying. The plane feels pretty safe. It's shaking like Hell on start-up and take off. But at cruising speed, it's quite pleasant. It's a simple and robust aircraft, built for hostile conditions.
I've taken this route before, but only in summer time. Tomorrow will be another interesting experience; flying on an Antonov 24 across the white tundra >:)
(This trip, I've only been working and traveling, no opportunity to take pictures. Above is a picture I took last summer, onboard the Antonov 24. A nice stewardess was serving lunch, with all kinds of Russian drinks)
Never heard of it, although I'm not about to jump in near freezing water. And doubt magic is involved.
ReplyDeleteAlex: I had never heard about this holiday either. It's probably celebrated only by the Orthodox Church. Some believe the vodka is making the magic, but I don't think so. The vodka Russia's curse.
ReplyDeleteEither Moscow or Murmansk sounds better than that Antonov 24!! What an exciting (if exhausting!) life you lead, Cold! The potential for settings in your future novels are numerous. Hope your flight home is uneventful!
ReplyDeleteJudy, South Africa
Judy: I make some travel notes on my way; hope they will be useful in my writing some time. I just came off the Antonnov 24, nice and smooth flight, no problems >:)
ReplyDeleteWas it freezing cold when Jesus was Christened? Is that why they're doing that? Or is it mandatory before you're allowed to drink the vodka? (Honestly, that's the only reason I'd jump into an ice hole.)
ReplyDeleteDefinitely because of the vodka. I hope you will learn Russian one day. Learning new languages will open up another world...
ReplyDeleteThe Spinster’s Vow
Nessa: You know the Bible is a random selection of text and gospels chosen among much a bigger set of texts. A well known text that didn't make it to the final is the gospel of Judas. Less known is the gospel of Igor, who witnessed Jesus being baptized in frozen river, before he turned it into a river of vodka, probably his first miracle >:D
ReplyDeleteEnid: I've read lotss of Russian classics, and many years ago I had an ambition to learn Russian, to read Dostoyevsky in the original language. Now I've realized that Russian is way to complicated for me to learn.
Once again, thanks for taking us on the flight with you! Hope it's as safe as they say it will be.
ReplyDeleteI swear sometimes I feel like I'm reading a spy novel here. None of it sounds safe or above board to me. You're a good secret agent, Cold. But doesn't this all make you really want to brush up on the Slavic languages? ;)
ReplyDeleteLydia: It was safe, no problems >:)
ReplyDeleteJayne: I am a spy, but don't tell the FSB >;)
Great travels! I've never been to Russia and am a bit envious. But I lived in Macedonia. The holiday is an Orthodox one.
ReplyDeleteYes, that's what the Russians told me; Orthodox holiday. It kind of marked the end of Christmas. The day after they packed down the Christmas tree and all the decorations in the hotel. Did they celebrate this holiday in Macedonia too?
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