September 12, 2011

Notes from Moscow


I have a crazy travelling schedule these days. Last week, I was on a domestic trip up north. This week, I'm in Moscow. Next week,I'm going to San Antonio. In between the trips,I need to catch up with thing in the office. But most busy was the preparation for everything upfront. My writing has been suffering from this. No time to post on my blog, and no time to work on my so-called novels (yes, plural, I'm working on two novels now, in rare progress). Fortunately, days away traveling also means nights free for writing, and other sorts of fun.

I flew into Moscow today. A driver picked me up in the airport. The traffic jam was terrible. It took almost two hours to get to the hotel. The Moscovians have found various tricks to get around the problem. The rich and powerful have blue lights and sirenes on their Audis and BMWs, to get through the traffic. Along the higway to the city centre, there's an unofficial dirt lane for the impatiant, through gardens and across lawns, wherever it's physically feasible to get trhough.

Actually, I enjoy going to Moscow. It has become a metropol comparable to London and Paris. The Russians are a proud people. Their hospitality is great, and they always want to show you the best of their country (there are plenty of not so great things as well). They always want give you the best borsch (the famous beetroot soup), and the best salty fish (as a starter), and they always book five-star hotels for me.

Moscow has never been invaded or occupied by foreign powers. They stopped Napoleon in the battle of Borodino in 1812. You can read the artistic exposition of it in Tolstoy's War and Peace. The Germans didn't get further than to IKEA. At that time there was hardly any IKEA, of course, but there's a memorialright outside the warehouse, to mark the place where Hitler's army was forced to retreat.

But also, in a sense, the Russians show a lack self confidence. Anything made in Russia is inferior, importeted stuff is superior; cars, clothes and even soccer players (recently Cameroon superstar Samuel Eto'o was signed by Anzhi from Dagestan for a $28 million per year salery). In bars and restaurants, they always want to serve the tasteless imported beers, like Heineken, Budweisser and Carlsberg, even though the Russian beers are much better.

I checked into the Swissotel by the river a couple of hours ago. It's a convenient place to stay, just a ten-minute walk from our Moscow office. They gave me a great room this time, on the 26th floor, with a magnificent view of central Moscow. I didn't bother to go out tonight, so I chose the lazy option, eating in the hotel. Right now, I'm sitting in the restaurant on the 34th floor, to get something to eat. It's dark outside, and I'm looking down on the Moscow River. The barges gliding slowly down the river make a big contrast to the busy highway on the river banks.

I'm eating alone tonight, and taking a couple of beers; first a Baltika #7 with my food, and then Belgian abbey beer, Leffe Brune. Boring? No, not at all. I'm never bored. I'm entertaining my self with some writing. I'm lonely tonight, but doesn't feel lonesome. My own company is good company, sometimes at least.

(Above is a picture I took from my hotel room right before dawn today. Very nice view of central Moscow.)

15 comments:

  1. Wow, sounds great. I would love to see Moscow but not in the winter

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  2. Good to hear from you! You really do travel a lot.
    I remember watching Top Gear when the guys were all driving old Russian cars. They agreed with your assessment.

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  3. I've never been to Moscow. Lately, I can't even seem to get out of Amarillo.
    Anyway, if I ever went, I'd probably do the same as you and spend time alone in a motel room, writing my novel. I hope you get lots of work done. You seem to have the perfect atmosphere for it.

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  4. The rich and powerful can always find their way out of a jam. And which is better, the green or the red borsch?

    That is fabulous!--IKEA built right where the NAZIs were shamed. That's innovation for you.

    I love the image you paint from the 34th floor--the gliding barges, the buzzing highway, the beautiful city of Moscow--really lovely. Enjoy your trip. Sometimes its a blessing to travel with oneself. ;)

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  5. that's kind of funny, the ikea thing...i mean, it's mostly funny because ikea (at least the US version) is one of those places that makes you want to run screaming from it eventually with the way they trap you in there without any clear way out except following those damn arrows on the floors. so i'd imagine the nazis all entering the ikea and then, after being trapped in there for hours, just surrendering.

    this was a really good post, i definitely felt like i got some of the real taste of moscow in my head.

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  6. Hyvää matkaa, "happy journey", then!

    The lack of time for blogging seems to be an overall thing these days. At least my feed is not updating more than maybe once a week with a post - and there's quite a lot of blogs there! However, in all fairness, I am guilty myself. I have a cameraful of pictures to post but never have time to sit down and empty it. Maybe I should convince the Company to send me on a business trip somewhere..

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  7. Great descriptions.
    What is it with their lack of self confidence?? So strange....and sad.

    The view looks great!! Totally jealous of your travel schedule. :)

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  8. Heineken, Budweisser and Carlsberg tasteless? Hehe, I actully quite like Heineken. And good to read about no IKEA in Moscow.

    Every Savage Can Reproduce

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  9. Susan: I agree. If you're going to Moscow once, you should go in the summer, not in winter. May is very nice. September is chill and rainy. October can be quite cold

    Alex: I've been travelling too much recently. This is my 5th trip to Russia since May, and there will be more. I wouldn't buy a Russian car, but the beer is good >:)

    Nessa: Amarillo is in Texas, right? Think I drove through there once. I'm going to Texas next week, but no time to drive around this time. Not much writing tonight, unfortunately. I was working till 7pm, and then went out to eat with a couple of colleagues.

    Jayne: Yes, the rich and powerful always find their way. Annoying isn't it. Life is not fair, and never will be. But e can always do our best to behave and take care of fellow citizens. In that context, I'm always happy to pay my tax bill. When it comes to borsch, I prefer the red. Actually, I try to eat borsch (for starter) as many places as possible, because all restaurants serve their own varieties. I want to taste them all,and plot them into my own best-of-the-borsch scale >:)

    id: You may have invented a new war tactics; trap the enemy inside IKEA, and they're stuck. They should build one IKEA in Kabul and one in Baghdad, and problem is solved >:)

    Silme: That's Finnish, isn't it? I'm looking forward to see all your pics. Get on a business trip, I agree. I can recommend a coupleofplacesto go,and some places not to go >:)

    Kaylen: The Russians are proud, and sometimes hard to negotiate with. Historically, they have never given up a single square inch of land (or anything else) without fight. During the Soviet era, the everything-made-in-Russia-is-crap attitude was established, and it still exists. The new-rich Russian business (wo)men want to exhibit their wealth, with expensive cars and clothes and jewelry, giving them a kind of vulgar appearance. All the Russians I deal with, however, are polite and intelligent and well educated and very nice people.

    Enid: I don't dislike Heineken. It tastes like water, and I do like water, but I don't want to buy it at beer prize. Tonight, after work, we went by the metro to Tverskaya (the restaurant street) to eat, and I got my favorite Russian beer; Sibirskaya Korona >:)

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  10. Moscow to San Antonio?! That some mileage! Safe travels!

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  11. Liz: Fortunately I have a day at home between the trips.

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  12. Wonderful view of Moscow. Now I know why my niece loves it (& Russia) so much! Your life sounds rich and full and that will surely filter into your writing, whenever you do find the time to get to work on those two novels.

    Judy, South Africa

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  13. Lovely view. You are certainly traveling a lot!

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  14. I'd love to go to Moscow, or anywhere in Russia, really, someday. So far I've only seen Russia from afar, across the Norwegian border, and then once across the Finnish border much further south. And I've seen the vast emptiness that is Siberia from airplanes.

    Doesn't really count, though. Someday.

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  15. Judy: Thanks. The progress of my so-called novels is slow but steady >:)

    Sheila: Sometimes is a little bit too much.

    Cruella: I bet your future career will bring your all over the world. You'll get the chance to see it all >:)

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