May 15, 2012

Who the Hell was Stroganoff?

I’m out traveling again. No need to say where. It’s almost become an habit. I survived another trip on the old Antonov 24, and arrived safely on Putin’s side of the border.

The driver took me to the hotel. Then I went to the café to get a dark Piligrim and something to eat. Irina was behind the counter, with a shy smile as usual. She gave me the menu, and I looked through it to find something to eat. Pizza? No, it’s terrible. Some Russian dish? I found beef Stroganoff on the menu. An international dish, but at least a Russian name.

 But who the Hell was Stroganoff? The chef who invented this popular dish? I Googled it and found the answer. Beef Stroganoff goes back to a Russian family of very rich merchants, during the Tsar era. The beer was good and the Stroganoff was eatable. I asked Irina for another beer, but not another Stroganoff.

Today I was working with our Russian collaborators. Not much to say about it, not much I’m allowed to say about it. But the lunch was good. Seafood from arctic waters. Herring and cod and caviar.

Then I started the trip back home, by car, through northern wilderness in early spring. Snow was mostly gone, but lakes still covered by ice, and no signs of green leaves yet.

We stopped at the cafe in Titovka, to get a cup of bad instant coffee and a rest. It’s become a habit.

When we passed through the Army town of Sputnik, I asked the driver if he had been in military service. I told him I had, in the navy, during the cold war (I will write about my merits in battle some time later).

 “You were our enemies,” I said, “the evil empire in the east.”

 Then we got a good laugh, on our way to the border between two countries that have never been at war.

 (Some pictures I took today, from top to bottom: Murmansk seen from the other side of the fjord. The cafe in Titovka, made from 3-4 old yellow railroad cars tied together. Not much of a cafe, but you can get a cup of coffee or a coke, and use the restroom for 15 Rubles. Nikel seen from the road ()my driver don't want to stop there). It was a sunny day, but the town was obscured by the smoke from the Nickel factory.)

12 comments:

  1. All food tastes better with beer. ;-)

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    1. Yes, with some exceptions, such as porridge and egg and bacon >:)

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  2. This reminded me of the days we would follow my father around the globe when he was in the Air Force. Some places in other countries had toll toilets. You had to put a coin in the slot to get the stall open. My poor mother hauling round three babies would always forget the coins. (Do I know why your post reminded me of that? No, not really...)

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    1. Not sure why this should remind you of your father's job in the Air Force. Maybe the reference to the Cold War? Parts of the trip we're driving along a 4-lane road; two asfalt lanes for cars in the center, and wide gravel lanes for tanks on each side, everything made ready for an invation (and returning back). Or maybe it was the mention of my outstanding career in the Navy (ironi). For mysterious reasons, I ended up in the military police >:)

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    2. so what is it you do that you are in Russia all the time?

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    3. I pretend to be a geophysicist working in petroleum exploration. But in reality, I'm a spy working for MI6 >;)

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  3. You know, I'd never thought about strogonoff being Russian before. I would have thought it would have died out in the US during the cold war, but it is one of those things you can eat relatively cheaply, so it has always been an American home-cooked staple. Your description, in spite of all of it being sparse and strange and filled with medicre food and bad coffee, really makes me want to visit Russia.

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    1. It's a very interesting country, and I don't have much to complain about when I'm in Russia. Good food and many nice people. The bad coffee is rare. Russia is traditionally a tea country. That's what they usually serve. Stroganoff is a western adaption of the original Russian name of Stroganov

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  4. Beautiful description of a trip through a fascinating country. That last line in your blog post carries a powerful impact.

    Judy, South Africa

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    1. Thanks. It's quite interesting that the last line is in fact true. The Russians even pulled out of our country after defeating the Germans in 1945. I don't know why they pulled out, because in the Eastern European countries they stayed, basically till the collapse of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s. I have to ask a historian about this some time.

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  5. Spy. Ssshhh!

    "Seafood from arctic waters. Herring and cod and caviar." Divine. I'm going for a Leffe... (maybe a pizza, too.) Have a great weekend, Cold. ;)

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    1. The seafood from the arctic is great. So is Leffe, in particular the dark one; brune. Hope you enjoy your Belgian abbey beer, and your weekend.

      Don't tell anyone that I'm a spy >;)

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