October 5, 2011

On the bumpy road


Can you write a novel while riding in a car through the wilderness of northern Russia? I can't, and I didn't even bother to try, because it would just make me sick.

I have two so-called novels in progress, sometimes in progress at least. The first one is a crime novel. I ran into some problems with it, some issues with the plot, and I'm kind of loosing the overview and control of things. I'm not quite sure what to do about it, so I started on a 2nd novel, which is more like a road novel. There's no plot, I just write, and I write longhand, in a notebook that I can always bring with me when I'm travelling.

Yesterday I wen't on a business trip to Murmansk, again.

I'm a little bit reluctant to domestic flights in Russia right now. They've had too many accidents this year. In the last plane crash, a couple of weeks ago, an entire pro-hockey team from the KHL (the Russian equivalent of NHL) was wiped out. Right now Russia is even ranked behind Congo on air-line safety.

So I chose a different route this time. I took a plane as far to the north and east as I could get, close to the Russian border. It's a two-hour flight, and I spent the time working on my (2nd) novel. Great!

The novel is about two old men escaping from the nursery home. Just like me, they're going up north, but by train and ship, rather than plane and car. Since I'm just a hobby writer, I don't have much time to do research. So I have to write about things I know and places I've been.

My Russian driver picked me up at the airport, and 15 minutes later, we crossed the border to Russia, which takes some time. There are two check points, one on each side of the border. About 100 km of the road goes through a Russian military zone. So there were more check points, in and out of the military zone.

It's difficult to build good roads on the tundra. The roads get very bumpy, because of the seasonal freezing and melting of the surface layer. Sometimes it feels like riding a roller coaster. Reading and writing in the car is out of question. The only thing I could do was to talk with the driver, about fishing and hunting and cars and Soviet history. He told me interesting things about every town we passed through. That's the way I like it, when the driver acts like a tourist guide as we go along.

After a four-hour drive through the wilderness, I arrived in my hotel in Murmansk. Then I could return to my novel, finally. I wrote a few pages before I went down to the restaurant, to get some food and a dark beer (Krusovice, Czeck beer; quite good). Then I returned to my room to write some more.

It's a bad novel, I admit, but I have lots of fun writing it. I don't know where it will end yet, maybe in Murmansk. We will see.

And the title of this post is inspired by Jack Kerouac of course. His novel is a lot better than mine >:)

(Half way between the Russian border and Murmansk, we stopped in a cafe in the middle of nowhere, to get a cup of coffee and a salomon sandwich. The cafe is that little yellow building to the right in the picture. I think it's an old freight car from the rail road company.)

11 comments:

  1. I'm so happy to have found your blog! And even more excited to follow along with some of your travels (I love globe trotting and don't do it nearly as often as I'd like.)

    And a fellow scientist :D

    Keep at the writing...your characters will come around. Sometimes you just need to give them some space.

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  2. I can write regardless of what's going on around me. I don;t travel much, but really wish I did. That's one area of my life that needs improvement. Enjoy Russia!

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  3. Russia? Hot damn! Russia always fascinated me. Traveling definitely falls on my To-Do list. I visited Paris and Madrid in high school and the Caribbean when I graduated Penn State, but I need to do more. I'm at an age now that traveling will bring me an entirely different experience than my previous travels. Thanks for taking us along with you!

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  4. I don't blame you for skipping the Russian domestic flight. Their flight record of late is a bit disconcerting. Besides, you get to talk to a local for hours while en route!

    I wonder if there isn't a train you could take? You might get a little more writing done that way. I've always loved taking trains--much more so than flying. ;)

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  5. I can't stand riding in a car while someone else is driving, especially on a bumpy road.
    It's an irrational fear I have. I'd rather take the risk on the Russian airplane.

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  6. Wow. Yeah, I would have skipped the plane too ... Nice to meet you! Thanks for dropping by my blog. You have a new follower :o)

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  7. Barbara: Thanks. I'm not travelling all the time, but this year it's been extreme, and science is the main reason for my travel >:)

    Stephen: That's very convenient, to be able to write and work under all kinds of circumstances. I'm like that too, mostly, not easy to disturb.

    Lola: Thanks. Nice to meet you >:)

    Laura: Russia is very fascinating; the history, the culture, and the Russian Classics. Moscow has become a great modern city. St Petersburg too, I've heard, but haven't been there myself (except transit stop in the airport) since 1990, when it was still called Leningrad.

    Jayne: Talking to the locals is very interesting, wherever you go. Yes, there is a (slow) train I could take, almost all the way, from Murmansk to Nikel, which is 8km (5 miles) from the border. For safety reasons, my company's policy is to use our own driver (same guy every time I visit).

    Nessa: It feels kind of more safe when you're behind the wheel yourself, with full control. Now I've tried about all options for travel to and from Russia. The international planes to and from Russia are pretty safe, because they need to obey international (European Union) regulations. We'll see what I do next time >:)

    Jessica: Thanks for visiting and following >:)

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  8. I think writing a novel from Russia would be super cool. What a trip you had. Thanks for sharing those pics with us.

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  9. What an adventure. Is it a crime novel set in Russia??? Coolness.

    So very sad about that hockey team. I had a friend who did a lot of traveling in Russia and, like you, was not confident with domestic flights either. Safe travels!

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  10. Wow, that sounds fascinating! I'd be afraid of flying too, but I'd love to see Russia. I was taking Russian classes, even, for a couple of years at work.

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  11. Clarissa: It was a great trip. My driver is a very nice guy. He's driving every time I visit Murmansk.

    Liz: My crime novel is set in Winterland. My road (or train and ship) novel will end up in Russia, but there's still a long way to go >:)

    Deniz: I would like to take Russian classes too, but I think the language is too complicated for me to learn, unless I get the chance to live in Russia for a while. In fact, I would be happy to live in Moscow for a year or two, but don't think the rest of my family will.

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